Memphis, Music, and the Mississippi

Memphis has been made famous by its music — by Elvis, Johnny Cash, B.B. King and countless others. It’s also known for the Mississippi River and pivotal moments in civil rights movement, but having never visited Memphis before, I really didn’t know what to expect, in terms of the town itself.

I held in my mind, not a single image of what Memphis looked like. Not one. Not one building, not one natural wonder — I could not even conjure up any images of the Mississippi River. Memphis was a complete mystery to me. A blank slate. I only held songs in my mind, such as Proud Mary, by Creedence Clearwater Revival, Graceland by Paul Simon, Memphis Tennessee, by Chuck Berry, I’ve Been to Memphis by Lyle Lovett, and one of my favorites, Walking in Memphis by Marc Cohn — the song that kept playing in my head the entire week leading up to my trip. Over 100 songs have been written about Memphis or mention Memphis in the lyrics. I had lots of song lyrics and melodies, but no images.   

 

Downtown Area

When I arrived I was immediately struck by how old and well preserved the small downtown area was. Modest old buildings had not yet been leveled for giant Walmarts, Targets or 30-story office buildings. It was old, somewhat downtrodden, a little gritty, but in a refreshing way — a nostalgic way that reminds you of the 1950s or 60s. The downtown was smaller and more charming than I had imagined, especially Main Street, with old brick buildings, and even brick streets. There are no cars on Main street, just the old Trolleys and lots of horse carriages. The entire downtown is walkable. I walked everywhere and everything is close by. No need for an Uber, although I did ride the trolley a few times (which was free when I was visited). 

Main Street, Memphis, Tennessee

Main Street, downtown. It’s very quiet and there is no car traffic, just trolleys and horse carriages.

 

Beale Street: Home of the Blues

In addition to being a National Historic Landmark, Beale Street was officially declared the “Home of the Blues,” by an act of Congress in 1977. Surprisingly, the Beale Street Entertainment District is only three blocks long — not even 2 miles — and ends rather abruptly. A brisk walk down this famous street would only take about take you about five minutes. For the uninitiated, it’s one big party with lots of blues clubs, but to truly appreciate Beale Street’s significance, it’s good to know the history of Beale Street and all the legendary blues, rock-a-billy, jazz and soul artists who started out there.

Beale Street buildings, Memphis

Old buildings on Beale Street, downtown Memphis

 

While these days it may be rather touristy, Beale Street is still pretty low-key and casual in many ways, at least during the day. At night however, the whole scene changes and the blocked-off street turns into one big party. It can get a little rowdy, even more so after a big game. Luckily, this short stretch of Beale, with all the bars, restaurants and blues clubs, is closed off to car traffic. When the sun sets, Beale Street is all about the music — with blues and rock ’n roll booming out of every bar, nightclub and cafe.

Beale Street, Memphis

Beale Street Entertainment District, as the sun sets, downtown Memphis

 

We encountered a lot of cover bands on Beale Street, catering to visitors who’ve come to hear to “the blues.” While some performers were better than others, there were so many talented singers and musicians that we came across just strolling down Beale Street. The windows of many clubs are open and you can stand outside and enjoy to the music. I wish we could have listened to more bands, but there is only so much time, and you can’t really go in, take up space and not order a meal or a drink (although, that’s pretty much what we did at B.B. King’s and they didn’t seem to mind). On our last day, we sat for several hours during the day at B.B. King’s Blues Club and enjoyed a rock/blues band playing cover tunes. A lot of the blues clubs don’t charge a cover charge which is great. 

The party atmosphere of Beale Street is certainly festive, but it did feel a little forced at times, more like a theme park than a real city street. On the one hand, Beale Street is not quite what I had imagined, as it’s such a short little stretch of blues clubs. On the other hand, I’ve never seen so much live music concentrated in such a small area. All that wonderful music, combined with the incredible history of Beale Street, made it the highlight of visiting Memphis.

 

Music History and Museums

So many legendary recording artists came out of Memphis and performed and recorded in Memphis, from B.B. King and Otis Redding to Elvis Presley and Johnny Cash. Blues legend B.B. King got his start performing on Beale Street. There were so many music “firsts” that occurred in Memphis, from the blues and rock ’n roll, to soul music and country. Luckily for music lovers and history buffs, many of these famous recording studios, record companies and other sights have been preserved and are now museums and historic sights. 

In addition to Graceland — the estate of Elvis Presley and Memphis’s most famous tourist attraction —  Memphis is dotted with places that tell the story of American music, starting with the music of Black musicians and the blues, followed by the birth of rock-a-billy, rock ‘n roll, and how it all went mainstream with people like Elvis, Jerry Lee Lewis, Johnny Cash, and Carl Perkins. Touring these places, or even just taking a guided tour with Backbeat Tours, gives visitors fascinating look back at the humble beginnings of America’s music industry — how it started and how it evolved. 

Sun Records, now a popular tourist attraction, is probably best known for being the first label to record Elvis Presley, Jerry Lee Lewis, Roy Orbison, Johnny Cash and for bringing the music of Black artists and rhythm and blues to a white, mainstream, and much larger, audience. Elvis Presley used to hang out on Beale Street listening to the Black artists play the blues and his earliest recordings were with Sun Records. Many great blues artists also recorded at Sun Records, including Howlin Wolf, Bobby “Blue” Bland, and Rufus Thomas.

The Stax Museum of American Soul pays tribute to Stax Records and recording studio which produced some of the biggest hits of the 1960s, including Otis Redding’s Sittin’ on the Dock of the Bay and Try a Little Tenderness, as well has hits by Sam and Dave, Booker T. & the M.G.s (the house band for nearly all recordings at Stax), Rufus Thomas and Carla Thomas. Other big names include William Bell, Eddie Floyd (Knock on Wood) and the writing team of Isaac Hayes and David Porter.

For even more music history, memorabilia and trivia consider visiting The Memphis Music Hall of Fame museum and the Memphis Rock n Soul Museum. I toured the Memphis Music Hall of Fame which was worth the small price of admission. It’s a small museum, which was nice because it was not overwhelming. It mostly showcased a lot of cool costumes, signed guitars and other memorabilia.

 

Memphis History and Civil Rights landmarks

Almost every corner of Memphis has a plaque dedicated to someone who made history. Memphians seemed extremely proud of their city’s rich heritage, its music legends and civil rights heroes. These historic plaques pop up on almost every block of downtown Memphis. Be on the lookout for these fascinating little history lessons — you’ll get dribs and drabs of history and trivia on many interesting topics, from Johnny Cash and Martin Luther King, Jr., to Danny Thomas and the Piggly Wiggly grocery store chain, America’s first self-service grocery store, founded in 1916.

Piggly Wiggly historic plaque, Memphis, Tennessee

Piggly Wiggly historic marker, downtown Memphis

 

Certain historic sights were much more emotionally moving than I anticipated, especially the main three sights associated with Martin Luther King, Jr., most notably, the place of his assassination, the Lorraine Motel, which has been turned into the National Civil Rights Museum. Other moving civil rights sights include the Mason Temple where where Martin Luther King, Jr. gave his famous “I’ve Been to the Mountaintop” speech, and the iconic Clayborn Temple where the sanitation workers who protested gathered and organized the Sanitation Workers’ Strike of 1968. The church now has a beautiful memorial with a sculpture that reads “I Am A Man,” the slogan used by the sanitation strike protesters which became synonymous with the Civil Rights movement.

Memphis civil rights sculpture,

“I AM A MAN” sculpture and civil rights monument at the Clayborn Temple church

One of the more interesting sights is an old house, now a museum, called Slave Haven Underground Railroad Museum, part of the Underground Railroad that hid enslaved Black people seeking freedom during the Civil War. 

 

Memphis has Exceptional Guided Tours

There is so much history and music trivia in this small town, that I highly recommend taking a guided tour, if you have the time. I did two such tours and the amount of information the tour guides packed into two hours was pretty incredible. The first tour was called Backbeat Tours, which highlights the history of the blues and the birth of rock and roll in Memphis. Our tour guide, Davy Ray Bennett, a talented musician with a great voice, also sang many of the songs discussed on the tour. It was a musical performance as well as tour. Mr. Bennett was extremely knowledgable about Memphis music history and trivia, and furthermore, made it interesting even to those of us who weren’t necessarily big music trivia buffs. 

Backbeat Tours, Memphis, Tennessee

Davy Ray Bennett, our tour guide for Backbeat Tours, performed and gave an excellent tour of historic music sights

 

The other tour I highly recommend is called A Tour of Possibilities. “Queen,” our tour guide, gave a very fascinating tour of Black history and civil rights in Memphis. I must say, that I found Queen to be one of those rare souls who found has her true calling. She can both educate and entertain her guests in such a way that you will end up loving Memphis, with its complicated history, as much as she does.

Other fun tours to consider include food tours with Tastin’ ‘Round Town, a ghost tour with Historical Haunts or a craft brewery tour with the Memphis Brew Bus.

Memphis has its music heroes and civil rights heroes but one the town’s most beloved celebrities is not Elvis, or even B.B. King, but actor Danny Thomas, who founded and built St. Jude’s Children’s Hospital. I’ve seen the St. Jude’s Children’s Hospital commercials my entire life, and never knew anything about the actual hospital. The hospital and the fascinating story of why Danny Thomas built it, was highlighted on both the tours I took. Both of the Memphian tour guides seemed extremely proud of the hospital and everything it does to treat children — free of charge! 

 

The Mighty Mississippi River

There are numerous ways to get acquainted with the Mississippi River in Memphis. We took a Memphis Riverboats dinner cruise and while it wasn’t perfect (the music was annoyingly loud, even on the top decks due to a giant speaker) and we ended up on a boat with a tour bus filled with a bunch of wild, partying seniors — which I have no problem with, but logistically, because they were seated at a long table in the middle, like a wedding party, the group took over the place. I actually felt a little sorry for a few of the young couples who probably thought they were going to have a more upscale, elegant, romantic evening. Even my partner, who is in his 60s seemed annoyed at one point by the way the senior tour group dominated the evening. It really wasn’t their fault, it was more the management’s fault for the awkward seating arrangement (they should have broken them up and sat them at a small tables). I must admit though that the partying seniors were a lot of fun and danced like nobody’s business. 

Memphis Riverboat tours

Mississippi Riverboat tour and dinner cruise, as the sun sets

I do recommend doing a riverboat tour because it’s fun to get out on the the Mississippi River and the tickets were pretty inexpensive. Our old-time riverboat with all the upper decks was really cool and provided amazing views of the downtown Memphis. At night you get a front row see to the beautiful light show of the Hernando DeSoto Bridge. Their daytime cruise is less expensive and is more of a sightseeing tour. 

I also highly recommend walking over to Mud Island Park if you have time. Again, this was a very short walk from our hotel. You can walk right over the Mississippi River and explore the park and fascinating miniature replica of the Mississippi River that is part of the park. You can also get great shots of the very cool “MEMPHIS” sign and the downtown from the vantage point of the river.

 

Beyond Beale Street: See a Play, go to the Opera, attend the Symphony or the Ballet

Before you arrive in Memphis, you might want see what’s playing at some of the other performing arts venues and buy tickets to show. Memphis is really a performing arts town and has so much going on beyond Beale Street and the Blues. For a big splashy Broadway production, see what’s playing at the Orpheum Theatre, a beautiful 1928 theater that hosts the big touring Broadway plays. The Orpheum is located at Beale and Main Street, so if you’re staying downtown, you can walk. For classical performances, check out the Memphis Symphony Orchestra, Opera Memphis, and for dance, Ballet Memphis. Memphis also has a bevy of smaller playhouses including the Playhouse on the Square and the Hattiloo Theatre, with features plays by Black playwrights.

 

A Few Memphis Food Recommendations

While I’m not a big foodie, I certainly appreciate a good meal. I was impressed with the number of great restaurants and the diversity of cuisine. Memphis is famous for barbecue but I somehow managed to not eat at a single BBQ restaurant during the entire week. However, I would like to mention two restaurants that had amazing food: The Flying Fish and Curry N Jerk. I liked The Flying Fish so much that I went back the next day and ordered the same exact thing: fried catfish! The chicken at Curry N Jerk was incredible and well worth the wait (service was a bit slow).

 

After a week in Memphis, there was still so much more I wanted to experience. Memphis is the kind of place that gets under your skin. It has more heart and soul than most American cities I’ve visited. The locals were warm and friendly, and quite proud of the town’s contributions to music, the recording industry, civil rights and black history, the Grizzlies, and so much more. 

I left Memphis with plenty of images in my mind: views of the muddy Mississippi River, the Lorraine Motel, the quiet section of Maine Street with horse carriages and trolley cars, and all the neon and clubs on Beale Street. But I also left Memphis wanting to know more, wanting to return, wanting to see the things I had missed, like Graceland and BBQ restaurants, just to name a few. I think Memphis is one of those towns that’s just good for the soul. So when you’re tired of…whatever it is you might be tired of, in this modern world, head to Memphis. I’ll leave you with one of the coolest songs ever about Memphis that I’d never heard until recently, Memphis in the Meantime, by John Hiatt, (on YouTube), which, pretty much sums it up. 

 

Complete List of Memphis Museums, Attractions, Hotels and Restaurants:

For more information and a complete list of entertainment venues, attractions and historic sights, including the Memphis Zoo, the Memphis Botanic Garden, and the Memphis Brooks Museum of Art, visit MemphisTravel, the official Memphis Tourism site and a great website for all things Memphis.

© Rebecca Pavlik | TravlGusto — All Rights Reserved.

Silver Springs’ Glass Bottom Boats – Florida’s Oldest Tourist Attraction

Dating back to the 1800s, Silver Springs is known as one of Florida’s oldest tourist attractions. Located in the small town of Ocala, in north central Florida, it’s pretty far off the beaten path and kind of in the middle of nowhere. Well, Ocala isn’t exactly nowhere, but it’s not a coastal resort town, there are no white sandy beaches, and it’s not sexy like Miami Beach or romantic like Key West. But for anyone who grew up in Florida, they no doubt heard about Silver Springs and its famous glass bottom boats their entire lives. I was one of those people. I had always heard about this famous Florida tourist attraction but had never been. 

Let me explain. Growing up in St. Petersburg, Florida, in a blended family with six kids, our vacations were pretty limited, and by that I mean low-budget. No flights to Europe, Hawaii, or even nearby Mexico or the Bahamas. We were very middle class and my parents were not about to dish out the money for eight airline tickets. So we always stayed close to home. Every summer, year after year, we packed up two cars, an old boat, a kayak, two dogs, and drove off to Homosassa Springs. We always had a great time, snorkeling, fishing, water skiing, and kayaking, so I’m not complaining. It’s just that we never went anywhere else, and we never made it to Silver Springs and those famous glass bottom boats.  

Since moving back to Florida in 2014, I have set about exploring as much of this beautiful state as possible. Now that I’m a grown-up with a car, I can finally visit all those fantastic Florida towns and attractions I never saw growing up here. But I have to admit, Silver Springs has not been on my Florida bucket list since my return. Like many Floridians, I always assumed that the glass bottom boats at Silver Springs were probably a goofy, overrated tourist attraction. 

Be that as it may, my partner recently decided he wanted to explore the small Florida towns of Ocala and Gainesville. Having graduated from the University of Florida in Gainesville, I was less than enthused, but despite my objections, off we went!

Kayakers enjoying the scenery at Silver Springs State Park

Kayakers enjoying the scenery at Silver Springs State Park

 

Experiencing Silver Springs

Silver Springs, to my surprise, is absolutely beautiful — much more so than I ever imagined. It’s not just a tourist attraction, it’s a nature lover’s paradise. Between the springs, the crystal clear blue water, the lush subtropical forest, it all feels somewhat otherworldly. Up until visiting Silver Springs, I thought the most beautiful place in Florida was Highlands Hammock State Park. Now, I think it could be Silver Springs. 

View from the boardwalk trail at Silver Springs in Florida

View of kayakers from the Ross Allen Boardwalk trail at Silver Springs, Florida

 

The glass bottom boats also highly exceeded my expectations. I thought the glass would be dirty, scratched and hard to see through, like the fish bowl attraction was when I visited in Homosassa Springs, but the glass was perfect, like new. Not only that but the short boat ride goes over five different springs, each with its own name, history and trivia. Our tour guide, an older man who’d been a tour guide with Silver Springs for over 20 years, really gave us a lot of interesting geological facts about the springs as well as movie trivia and other interesting information. Over the years, dozens of underwater scenes for movies and television shows have been filmed at the park.

The glass bottom boat tours at Silver Springs take visitors directly over of 5 different freshwater springs

The glass bottom boat tours at Silver Springs take visitors directly over of 5 different freshwater springs

One of the best things about Silver Springs is how accessible the springs are as well as the surrounding rivers and waterways due to the wooden boardwalks, the glass bottom boats, kayak rentals and other trails. One doesn’t need to snorkel to experience this incredible natural wonder. In fact, snorkeling, scuba diving and swimming are prohibited in the park.

The Ross Allen Boardwalk trail at Silver Springs State Park, Florida

The Ross Allen Boardwalk is a short wooden boardwalk trail that showcases the park’s beauty

 

 

Florida’s Many Natural Springs

Silver Springs and all of the other freshwater springs in Florida, are a natural wonder — truly something to behold. Florida has one of the largest concentrations of natural springs on the planet. While Florida’s beaches are lovely, especially the protected beaches that haven’t been developed, it’s Florida’s wild interior that I find most stunning — its wild rivers, natural springs, and subtropical forests. I encourage anyone who has yet to visit these unique rivers and springs to make the effort and experience the pristine beauty of Florida’s wild interior.

Glass bottom boat at Silver Springs, in Florida

Visitors in kayaks and on paddle boards explore the park alongside the glass bottom boats

There are many other natural springs in Florida, over 1000 total, including 27 first magnitude springs, a spring that discharges over 64 million gallons per day. Florida’s springs attract visitors from all over the world. Some of the other popular springs in northern central Florida include Ichetucknee Springs State Park, Wakulla Springs, Ginnie Springs, Devils Den, Peacock Springs State Recreation Area, Rainbow Springs, Blue Springs, and Weeki Wachee Springs State Park (famous for its live mermaid show).

Florida’s springs produce crystal clear cold fresh water (unlike the many hot springs out west) which stays at a constant temperature of 72º Fahrenheit year round. This perfectly clear fresh water comes from Florida’s aquifer.

Sadly, Florida’s freshwater springs are in decline and have been for decades. Some of Florida’s springs have completely run dry. Mostly they are under threat from population growth and pollution, including agriculture runoff, fertilizer, and sewage, and the over-pumping of water from the aquifer for both bottled water companies and farming. Nitrates from this pollution contributes to the growth of fur-like algae, a major problem for the health of these springs and rivers and the wildlife that live in them. Our glass bottom boat tour guide didn’t mention any of this, but every month volunteer scuba divers remove tons of algae from the Silver Springs and the bottom of the boats. 

Kayakers at Silver Springs State Park in Ocala, Florida

Kayakers abound at Silver Springs State Park

 

Visiting Silver Springs State Park

Silver Springs became a Florida State Park in 2013, and now includes 4000 acres of undeveloped land adjacent to the original tourist attraction area. The park is huge and visitors can easily spend two or three days just exploring the trails and the river. Aside from the glass bottom boat tours, there are multiple hiking the trails, kayak and stand up paddle board rentals, a museum and education center, a restaurant, bicycling trails, and even equestrian trails (you must bring your own horse).

The park is easy to get to, being just on the outskirts of town in Ocala. There are plenty of hotels in town, the nicer area being the hotel chains on the south side of town right off of Interstate 75. The area we stayed in was pretty run down and I wouldn’t recommend it (a small cluster of the hotel chains right off of Interstate 75 on the north side of town). There are some really old funky mid-century motels right near the park’s main entrance which looked cute as well, if you’re not very fussy.

Important tips for visiting Silver Springs State Park:

  • Entrance to the park is only $13 ($12 for seniors and children) and includes a 30 min. glass bottom boat ride
  • There is a 90 minute Glass Bottom Boat tour for $25 ($20 for seniors and children)
  • Cabins (with kitchens) are available for rent as well as campground sites for RVs and tents
  • There is a restaurant on the premises
  • Swimming, snorkeling, and tubing are prohibited 
  • Fishing is prohibited
  • Dogs are allowed, but dogs must be on a leash
  • Bikes are allowed on the trails
  • Horse owners can bring their horses and enjoy the equestrian trails

For more information visit the Silver Springs website.

 

Ocala and Nearby Attractions

Ocala, Florida may not be on everyone’s bucket list, being such a small town and not on the coast, but for horse lovers it’s a “must-see” destination. Ocala is big-time horse country, and with over 400 thoroughbred farms, Ocala’s motto is “The horse capital of the World.”  Some of the horse farms even give guided tours. 

Furthermore, the World Equestrian Center (known as WEC), completed 2019 and the largest equestrian complex in the U.S., has really put Ocala on the map. This massive equestrian complex is more than just a horse show arena, it has a huge upscale hotel, a show jumping stadium, numerous indoor horse arenas, barns, a bevy of high-end boutiques, restaurants, and more. It’s worth seeing, even if you’re not a horse person. It has the look and feel of a huge, brand new Las Vegas casino, but with show horses instead of gambling. There is no charge to get in and visitors can stroll around the grounds and even watch an equestrian competition.

I can’t say that there is a whole lot to do in the town Ocala, but it’s worth visiting if you’re a horse person, or you want to visit Silver Springs, or you love the outdoors, hiking, kayaking or mountain biking, and places like Rainbow Springs State Park or Ocala National Forest.

About 45 minutes north of Ocala is the historic town of Micanopy, which is like going back in time. I loved this little town. It felt like something out of the past with its one-street downtown, old buildings, antique stores, and massive old oak trees. These are the kind of places you’ll only find inland and off the beaten path. Florida is truly a fascinating place with so much more to offer than just beaches and theme parks.

@ Rebecca Pavlik | TravlGusto — All Rights Reserved

 

Romantic Key West

There is something very romantic about the sub-tropical island of Key West, Florida, with its brightly colored gingerbread cottages and conch houses. It’s a fascinating place that has attracted famous artists, writers, poets, and even a U.S. President. For an American, even a Floridian, it feels like the ends of the Earth. Key West is laid back, welcoming, and as close as one can get to the Caribbean without leaving the U.S. It’s the kind of town that after visiting, you might wonder, how can I set my life up so that I can live in Key West?

Key West, Florida, Historic Old Town

Key West, Florida’s charming and historic Old Town

Even jaded Floridians love Key West! It is where we go to get away from it all, when our boring local beaches and nightlife just aren’t cutting it anymore and when we’re too lazy or broke to leave the state. We go to Key West to snorkel and scuba dive and explore coral reefs, which most of Florida’s coastline doesn’t have. Another reason Key West feels so different than other Florida beach towns is that there are no high rises — no 20-story condominiums littering the shoreline. Key West is one of the few Florida towns that has maintained its charming, small-town feel.

My Dad, a somewhat reserved college professor who lived in Colorado most of his life, who was known to hate Florida, absolutely loved Key West. Go figure. But it just proves that Key West is the one destination that everyone can agree on. If you could only visit one town in Florida, I would probably suggest Key West. There is something for everybody, young, old, gay, straight, partiers, nature lovers, artists, history buffs, scuba divers, and even butterfly enthusiasts! 

Sloppy Joe's Bar, a favorite hang-out on Duval Street

Sloppy Joe’s Bar, a favorite hang-out on Duval Street

 

A tropical paradise and America’s most southern town, Key West, Florida is famous for gorgeous sunsets, Key Lime Pie, Ernest Hemingway, Tennessee Williams, Conch Houses, sailing and water sports. It’s also famous for partying. Its most famous street, Duval Street is loaded with bars and cafes, most notably Sloppy Joe’s. The atmosphere is a little bit like a tropical island version of New Orlean’s French Quarter — a debauched Margaritaville come to life! 

Key West is known for water sports, boating and fishing

Key West is known for water sports, boating, and fishing

 

But before there were tourists, there were Native Americans (the Calusa and Tequesta), pirates and smugglers, Cubans, Bahamians (the original “Conchs”), sailors, soldiers, enslaved Blacks seeking freedom and refuge during the Civil War, as well as a large free Black population that already existed. Key West’s rich and fascinating history includes Civil War forts, naval stations, cigar factories, salt production, fishing, wrecking (diving for valuables from shipwrecks), and Henry M. Flagler’s Florida East Coast Railway. Key West even made a half-hearted attempt at gaining independence in the 1980s when it famously declared itself the Conch Republic. There is a lot of history packed into this tiny island!

With its official philosophy and town motto of “One Human Family,” Key West is also widely known as a gay mecca and as an extremely open and accepting LGBTQ+ friendly destination. The town has two pride festivals, Key West Pride in June and Womenfest in September. All are welcome on this diverse, festive, and friendly little island.

 

Things to Do in Key West

For an overview of Key West and to get your bearings, I recommend doing one of the popular sightseeing tours on your first day. We did the Hop-on Hop-off Trolley Tour, which I thought was well worth the price. You will see a lot of sights on this tour, get a little bit of history, and it will help you get oriented. Plus, on a really hot day, you won’t want to do a lot of walking. The island is quite small, but heat can be an issue in the summer months. You can also do the Conch Tour Train (not a real train, but a tram ride) or a guided bicycle tour with Key Lime Bike tours. This town loves tourists, wants to show them a good time, and offers all kinds of tours, so take advantage! 

Trolley tours in Key West, Florida

Trolly tours, tram tours and bike tours are a relaxing way to explore Key West

 

There is so much to do on this little island, it’s hard to know where to begin, which is why I recommend starting with a tour. Aside from drinking at famous pubs, dining on seafood, and seeing a few of the famous homes and landmarks, Key West is the perfect place to get out of your comfort zone and try something new. After a day or two exploring Duval Street, Mallory Square and all the super touristy locales, you’ll probably want to experience Key West from the perspective of a sailboat or catamaran. If you’ve never snorkeled, jet skied, kayaked, or para-sailed, why not try it here, in this gorgeous tropical setting! 

 

Boat Tours, Kayaking, and Water Sports

Fury Water Adventures Key West offers a all kinds of boat tours, snorkeling, and eco-tours

Fury Water Adventures Key West offers a all types of boat tours, snorkeling, eco-tours, sunset cruises as well as charters

 

Water sports rule in Key West. Therefore, to really get the most out of your Key West trip, spend some time on a boat. Don’t settle for watching all the fun from shore. Book a little cruise and do some sightseeing out on the water! Life in Key West truly revolves around water sports: boating, sailing, fishing, jet skiing, kayaking, snorkeling and scuba diving. Take advantage of all the sunset cruises, dolphin cruises, kayak tours, and snorkeling expeditions. Key West is not so much a beach town as it is a sailing, boating, fishing, and diving town. For more information on all the various companies that provide boat tours, watersports, scuba diving, snorkeling, boat rentals and charters, you may want to check out Fla-Keys.com.

Dry Tortugas Lighthouse, Key West, Florida

The Dry Tortugas Lighthouse on Loggerhead Key | Photo by Bryan Goff, Unsplash

 

Nature lovers will definitely want to spend a day visiting the Dry Tortugas National Park. Ponce de Leon discovered the Dry Tortugas in 1513, and amazed by all the sea turtles he saw, named the islands Las Tortugas (Spanish for The Turtles). The word “Dry” as added later to warn mariners that there was no fresh water on the islands. The park cannot be reached by car, only by plane or boat. Visitors can take a sea plane or the ferry (a two-hour boat ride each way) to Dry Tortugas for something really special. 

 

Nature, Wildlife and Eco Tours

Birders and nature lovers will especially enjoy kayaking through Key West’s Mangrove forests. Kayaking is the best way to view wildlife, explore the natural coastline up close, and fully immerse yourself in this sub-tropical ecosystem. There are several companies that offer guided kayak tours, which is a great way to learn about Key West’s National Wildlife Refuge and the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary.

Key West Eco Tours offers a variety of guided eco-tours. In addition, Lazy Dog Adventures also offers kayak eco tours, as well as boat tours, paddle board rentals and kayak rentals.

 

The Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservatory, Key West Florida

The Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservatory, one of Key West’s top attractions

 

One of the most surprising and delightful experiences I had in Key West was visiting The Key West Nature and Butterfly Conservatory. It’s hard to describe how special this place is. Entering the conservatory felt like stepping into a magical tropical forest filled with hundreds of tiny blue fairies fluttering all around me. When you enter the glass enclosed building, you are suddenly in a mini paradise, surrounded by over 50 different species of butterflies, as well as birds, waterfalls and even a few flamingoes. It’s not very big, but it’s so pretty that some couples chose it for their wedding venue. There is also an exceptionally nice gift shop and art gallery with unique butterfly inspired art, jewelry, and gifts.

 

Key West Attractions and Sightseeing

For History buffs:  The Hemingway Home & Museum, the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum, the Harry S. Truman Little White House, the Key West Museum of Art & History at the Custom House and Fort Jefferson (Dry Tortugas National Park)

For Nature and Wildlife Enthusiasts:  The Audubon House & Tropical Gardens, the Key West Aquarium, the Key West Nature and Butterly conservatory

Popular Annual Festivals:  Fantasy Fest (an outrageous 10-day costumed festival for adults, with parties, costume balls, and parades, at the end of October), Key West Pride, Womenfest, and the annual Hemingway Contest (an Ernest Hemingway look-a-like contest held in July)

 

Some Important Key West Travel tips

Key West is extremely hot in the summer and most activities are outside. Best to visit in the late Fall, October or later, Winter or Spring. Winter is peak season though, with bigger crowds and hotels charging higher rates. Spring is an ideal time to visit.

Avoid getting scammed at the tourist traps. There are definitely some scammy tourist traps on Duval Street and nearby, with super aggressive sales people standing out front trying to lure gullible tourists inside. Avoid any shop with aggressive, pushy sales people. Also avoid the T-shirt shops, the $5.00 shops, shady art galleries with cheap mass-produced prints, the shady cosmetic shops with the super aggressive sales people who stand out front (you will be scammed), and “duty free” jewelry shops. Avoid any shop with aggressive sales people and products that don’t list prices.

You won’t need a car in Key West (it’s that small), so if you’re coming from Florida’s Gulf Coast near Fort Myers or Naples, consider arriving by boat, via The Key West Express.  Parking in Key West is extremely limited and cars are discouraged. This company has been around a long time, and with a fleet of 3 large catamarans, they will get you there faster than driving. 

Bring bikes if you’re on a road trip. The town of Key West is very small, only 1 mile wide and 4 miles long, and between the train, the trolley and a bike, you won’t need a car. Furthermore, parking is extremely hard to find. Cars are actually discouraged in Key West. Best to explore on a bike if you can. 

You won’t find miles of white, sandy, beaches in Key West. There are tiny patches of beaches here and there. You won’t even have access to a lot of the coastline, as much of it belongs to resorts and their guests.  

Many of the small boutique hotels and B&Bs in Old Town don’t have swimming pools. When we went, our place was adorable but there was no pool and there was no place to park our car. Key West is tiny, space is precious, and parking is hard to come by.

 

@ Rebecca Pavlik | TravlGusto, All Rights Reserved

Santa Fe and Beyond – a Local’s Guide

With its picturesque adobe architecture, Santa Fe, New Mexico is the cultural gem of the American Southwest. Santa Fe’s charming downtown is loaded with historic hotels and resorts, endless art galleries, museums and concert halls. Santa Fe even has a world-class opera house just outside of town. Minutes away there are dozens of hiking trails, mountain biking trails and even a ski area. There is more to do and see in this small town than in many mid-size cities.

Having been lucky enough to live in Santa Fe for five years, I came to know and love this unique town with all of its quirks and contradictions. I always felt privileged to live in such a creative, beautiful, and interesting place. I continually explored the area with the eyes of someone seeing everything for the first time.

Having spent most of my life in Florida and California, I did not take any of Santa Fe’s charms for granted — the adobe architecture, the desert landscape, that Wild West nostalgia and Native American culture, and most of all the people. Santa Fe’s population is a unique mix of whites, Hispanics, hippies, artists, writers, Native Americans, Texans, Mexicans, rich and poor. The one thing they all seem to have in common is a desire to live a more authentic life in this Old West town that is happy to be stuck in the past.

Santa Fe, New Mexico

DOWNTOWN & THE PLAZA 

I have my favorite local haunts, most of which are farther afoot and not in the downtown area. That being said, there are those downtown “must-see” sites, with the downtown itself being the main attraction – a historic, well-preserved Southwest adobe fantasy world. Anyone visiting Santa Fe for the first time could easily spend an entire week just exploring the downtown Plaza area.

Art lovers should not miss The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, and historic Canyon Road, which is lined with 100-year-old adobe homes converted into art galleries. These are serious art galleries filled with a lot of incredible high-end art. With over 250 impressive galleries, Santa Fe is often rated one of the top art markets in the United States.

There are also several museums right off the Plaza, including the New Mexico Museum of Art, the Museum of Contemporary Native Arts and the New Mexico History Museum. For something more unique, visit Meow Wolf, a highly acclaimed art space known for comtemporary interactive and immersive art experiences.

Also in the downtown Plaza area and not to be missed is the Loretto Chapel, famous for its mysterious staircase. The historic downtown hotels are also worth exploring. Check out the La Fonda on the Plaza, the most interesting and historic hotel downtown. It’s a tourist attraction in itself. I recommend taking a look inside, walking around and even having lunch there. There is also the beautifully refurbished Hotel St. Francis. Take a look inside this gorgeous hotel or treat yourself to a drink at the bar.

The Museum of International Folk Art, a little farther from downtown, contains the largest collection of international folk art in the world. The collection represents cultures from Africa, Asia, Europe, Latin America & the Caribbean, North America, and Oceania, with additional concentrations in Spanish Colonial Art, Contemporary Hispano & Latino Art, and Textiles and Dress.

While you won’t run out of things to do and see downtown near the Plaza, to truly experience Santa Fe, you must pry yourself away from the somewhat touristy downtown area, as picturesque and charming as it is, and explore the surrounding areas. It’s the only way to discover what the locals know and love about Santa Fe and New Mexico. It’s what makes this place so attractive to artists, nature lovers, and everyone else. While downtown Santa Fe is beautiful and truly unique – a foodie’s and art lover’s paradise, it caters more to well-heeled tourists than locals.

JUST OUTSIDE OF SANTA FE

Ten Thousand Waves is a unique Japanese style spa and resort, and extremely popular with locals. I love everything about this place. The location is gorgeous and it’s just ten minutes north of Santa Fe on the way towards the ski area. It’s not only a beautiful Japanese spa, but also a hotel. Treat yourself to a private hot tub, a message, and then tea, surrounded by gorgeous mountain scenery.

Aspen Vista is Santa Fe’s most popular hiking trail, especially in the fall when the Aspen trees are changing colors. Here the landscape looks more like Colorado than New Mexico. The trail is wide, flat, and well maintained. It’s an easy trail anyone can walk (or mountain bike) and the scenery is just as beautiful at the beginning of the trail. You don’t have to hike far (or at all) to experience the beautiful views and all the Aspen trees. In addition to Aspen Vista, there are several other gorgeous hiking trails on the drive up to the ski area.

Santa Fe, New Mexico, Aspen Vista trail

SCENIC DAY TRIPS

You really need to get outside of town experience the more authentic, rural New Mexico as well as the iconic scenery that inspired Georgia O’Keeffe at her beloved Ghost Ranch — which you won’t find in Santa Fe, as pretty as it is. 

Ghost Ranch and the surrounding area is where you’ll find the stunning scenery that O’Keeffe so famously showcased in her paintings. About two hours northwest of Santa Fe, Ghost Ranch is where you’ll see the colorful red and yellow rock formations and dramatic New Mexico landscapes that inspired her. Hiking the trails at Ghost Ranch feels like being in one of her paintings. I recommend spending the day out there or even spending one night at Ghost Ranch or at the Abiquiu Inn, which is on the way. O’Keeffe had two homes, the more famous one at Ghost Ranch and the other one in Abiquiu. While not open to the public, the house in Abiquiu can be toured with a guide by making special reservations in advance at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum in Santa Fe.

Ghost Ranch, New Mexico

Abiquiu is hard to describe — there’s no Main Street, a real downtown, or even any commercial buildings. It’s more of a rural community where everything is spread out. For artists, photographers and O’Keeffe fans, it’s worth exploring. The small historic village, where Georgia O’Keeffe’s original home is now a museum, sits on the side of a hill, and worth a quick look. To tour the O’Keeffe home, you must reserve tickets in advance through the Georgia O’Keefe Museum in Santa Fe.

The main village of Abiquiu (the old historic section where O’Keefe’s house is located) has several old chapels, but no shops, cafes or commercial buildings. There is a small, but decent cafe and gift shop at the gas station market nearby just on the other side of the main road. The tiny village has a smattering of very small old houses, but when I visited the folks that lived there seemed a bit weary of tourists so tread lightly.

The Abiquiu Inn is a charming old hotel, right on the main road (you can’t miss it) which also has a nice cafe, opened for breakfast, lunch and dinner. In addition, the Inn has a gift shop and art gallery. Its a lovely location and worth exploring or even spending the night if you want to take your time exploring Abiquiu. 

Abiquiu, New Mexico, near Santa Fe

 

The Chama River, Abiquiu, and the surrounding rural landscape is beautiful and you can understand why many artists make Abiquiu their home instead of Santa Fe.  

Just a little bit south of Santa Fe is the old mining town of Madrid, the anti-Sant Fe. No glitz, high-end resorts, spas or or adobe fantasyland here! It’s a funky little artists’ community/biker town. Its one-street downtown is dotted with old homes converted into galleries, shops and small cafes. There really isn’t much to do or see here other than the town itself – a tiny quirky, slightly rundown old west town loaded with character (and characters), set amongst the desert hills. It’s where they filmed the movie Wild Hogs starring John Travolta.

El Santurio de Chimayó is an exquisite old adobe chapel and a National Historic Landmark. Built in 1916, this Catholic church is famous for its legends, the healing powers of dirt from a hole in its floor, and for its annual pilgrimage during Holy Week of around 30,000. In fact this church attracts approximately 300,000 visitors every year. You will find photographs, postcards and paintings of this beautiful old structure in galleries and shops all over Santa Fe. If you visit, stop and have lunch at the Rancho de Chimayó nearby.

Taos is only about an hour or so from Santa Fe and while much smaller, it’s well worth the drive. I imagine that Taos is more like Santa Fe used to be like before it boomed in the 80s and became a top tourist destination. Compared to Santa Fe, Taos is tiny, rustic and laid back — nothing like the expensive resort town that much of Santa Fe has become. By far, the biggest historical and cultural attraction is the Taos Pueblo — which will not disappoint. Visiting this working pueblo is like going back in time. For such a small town, Taos is packed with incredible historic sights, museums and things to do, including New Mexico’s most photographed church: the San Francisco de Asis Church. Also worth exploring are the Mable Dodge Luhan House, the Victor Higgins House, the Rio Grande Gorge, the Harwood Museum and much more. 

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa, a favorite of locals, opened in 1868. The spa’s hotel was added in 1917. This beautiful, rustic, and truly unique outdoor spa and mineral baths is north of Santa Fe in a very rural part of New Mexico. Ojo Caliente is famous for its outdoor mineral pools surrounded by desert scenery and beautiful rock formations. The spa even has three buildings listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. If you have the time, I highly recommend visiting this unique spa.

WHERE TO STAY: Where to stay downtown (walking distance to the Plaza):  the historic and beautifully remodeled Hotel St. Francis, the La Fonda on the Plaza, Inn & Spa at Loretto, Inn of the Governors, Hotel Santa Fe, La Posada de Santa Fe, and Inn on the Alameda. These gorgeous historic hotels on the Plaza can be quite pricey though, so if you’re on a budget you may want to stay at one of nice chain hotels or other options on Cerrillos Road. Note that hotels on Cerrillos Road are not walking distance to downtown and the Plaza.

WHERE LOCALS EAT, Downtown Plaza Area (my favorite places): a must is The Shed (traditional New Mexican food with lovely decor) the Cowgirl (decent food, great bar and live music), Upper Crust Pizza, Del Charro Saloon, Coyote Cafe & Rooftop Cantina, Tomasita’s Restaurant (traditional New Mexican), Clafoutis (French bakery & cafe, for lunch), and a cheap local favorite is the Frito Pie at Santa Fe’s Five & Dime General Store located on the Plaza.

WHERE LOCALS EAT, Elsewhere in Santa Fe:  Jambo Cafe (African cuisine), Backstreet Bistro (amazing soups & sandwiches), The Pantry (for breakfast), Counter Culture Cafe (breakfast or lunch), and El Parasol (best taco stand on Cerrillos Road), Tesuque Village Market in Tesuque (just 10 minutes north of downtown).

WHERE LOCALS GET A DRINK: The Cowgirl, Del Charro, Rio Chama (upscale restaurant with a very nice bar), The Matador (a cool dive bar and local favorite), and Evangelo’s, which is right downtown and where a scene from Crazy Heart with Jeff Bridges was filmed.

 

@ Rebecca Pavlik | TravlGusto,  All Rights Reserved

Cedar Key, Florida – An Authentic Old Florida Fishing Village

To unwind in an authentic old fishing village, surrounded by the unspoiled beauty of barrier islands, spend a few relaxing days in Cedar Key, Florida.

No coastal town in Florida is quite like Cedar Key, a tiny fishing village on the Gulf Coast of Florida. While Cedar Key has plenty to offer, if it’s white sandy beaches, nightlife, and glamour you desire, then it may not be your cup of tea. It’s a gritty old fishing town, not a beach town. There are no cruise ships or yachts, no high-end resorts, and not much in the way of white sandy beaches. However, if you want to experience a charming old-time Florida fishing village, and amazing clam chowder, then I highly recommend it!

 

Cedar Key, Florida, a historic fishing village on Florida's Gulf Coast.

Cedar Key, Florida, a historic fishing village on Florida’s Gulf Coast.

 

Part of the appeal of Cedar Key is that it’s quite isolated. It’s a small barrier island, part of the Cedar Keys archipelago. Located 50 miles southwest of Gainesville, the island of Cedar Key is pretty far off the beaten path. The main highway, interstate 75, doesn’t go through Cedar Key. The town is way off by itself at the very end of Highway 24, which goes right through a nature preserve. Perhaps this remoteness adds to the feeling of going back in time. You won’t pass any Walmarts, Targets, or other chain stores driving in from the main highway. The only grocery store in town is so small that I drove by it several times before I realized that it was the market.

Be sure to pack to your camera. Cedar Key, Florida is on the National Register of Historic Places. Thankfully, its lovely old dilapidated wooden buildings cannot be torn down. Downtown, there are a number of old wooden buildings that look like something right out an Old West movie. The buildings on the main tourist street along the water, also of wood construction, sit right over the Gulf of Mexico on stilts.

 

One of Cedar Key's historic downtown buildings.

One of Cedar Key’s historic downtown buildings.

 

In addition to historic buildings and gorgeous sunsets, photographers have plenty of other subject matter to capture, including the other barrier islands and the abundant wildlife. There are 13 small islands in the Gulf that make up of the Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge. These uninhabited islands are a birder’s paradise, with everything from bald eagles, magnificent frigatebirds, roseate spoonbills, white ibis, pelicans, a variety of herons and egrets, to numerous migratory birds. Not all the islands are accessible, however, and Seahorse Key is closed to protect nesting birds from March through the end of June.

 

Cedar Key, Florida, Brown Pelicans gather near a boat ramp.

Brown Pelicans gather on the dock near a boat ramp.

 

While Cedar Key caters to tourists, with some very cute shops and cafes, it is not a glitzy tourist destination — it’s a working class fishing town. Aside from fishing, boating, kayaking, and birding, there is not a whole lot else to do. It’s a great place to stay two or three nights, but unless you bring your own boat or kayak, you might run out of sightseeing activities after about three days — the town is that small. Visitors simply have no choice but to slow down and relax in Cedar Key.

I highly recommend kayaking or taking a boat taxi out to the old abandoned island of Atsena Otie Key. Atsena Otie was the original town of Cedar Key but now almost nothing remains other than the old cemetery. There is also a very small airport, just an airstrip, on a tiny island adjacent to Cedar Key.

 

Atsena Otie Key is now a nature preserve near Cedar Key, Florida

Atsena Otie Key, now a nature preserve, can easily be reached by kayak or a boat taxi

 

With a population of only 800 full-time residents, most locals and even the police just drive golf carts. Visitors can also join the fun and rent their own golf carts. The town is so small that you could even get by with just a bike or on foot.

 

Cedar Key, Florida, where many residents get around town with golf carts.

Downtown, Cedar Key, where everyone drives golf carts.

 

Known as Florida’s clam capital, Cedar Key produces 95% of Florida’s clams. If you love clams, Cedar Key is your town! Big Moon Sea Farm is just one of the interesting local clam producing fisheries in Cedar Key. Recently featured in a National Geographic documentary titled Saving the Florida Wildlife Corridor, two siblings from a Kansas farming family started the company after falling in love with Cedar Key.

And speaking of clams, for the best clam chowder you’ve ever tasted or for lobster bisque, stop for lunch at Tony’s. Tony’s Restaurant is famous in Florida for its award winning chowder which won the Great Chowder Cook-off three years in a row. For dinner, you can’t go wrong watching the sunset at Steamers Clam Bar & Grill. Sit outside perched high over the Gulf of Mexico with nothing but sea and sky and a few barrier islands for your view. For breakfast you can’t beat 2nd Street Cafe. We ate breakfast there all three days — great food, great coffee, and reasonable prices!

 

Cedar Key, Florida on Florida's Gulf Coast

Our view of the Gulf of Mexico, from Steamers.

 

You may notice that there are two types of people walking around: fisherman and tourists. And when I say fishermen, I mean rugged, bearded, weathered looking men wearing rubber boots and waders. These are not the sleek sport-fishing guides that cater to wealthy tourists you see in places like Naples and Sanibel Island. I also noticed quite a few retirees and local shop owners, but there are a lot of fisherman!

 

Cedar Key, Florida – Fishermen bringing in the day's catch

Fishermen bringing in the day’s catch, most likely clams.



Cedar Key, Florida is an authentic fishing village

Local fishermen heading out in Cedar Key.

 

Another wonderful thing about Cedar Key is that the locals, even the rugged fishermen, could not have been friendlier! Even though we were semi-obnoxious tourists sporting neon athleisure-ware and giant cameras, asking annoying tourist questions, every local was happy to talk and give us recommendations. One young man even opened up about his love-life (apparently Cedar Key is not the ideal place to meet young single women). Dating options aside, most of the locals I talked to seemed to realize that they lived in a very special place. They clearly appreciated the beauty, the charm, and especially the close-knit community and small town feel — everything that makes Cedar Key so special.

There are several festivals there every year, so if you’re looking for something more lively, check out the Spring Sidewalk Art Festival and the Fall Seafood Festival in October. Otherwise Cedar Key is an ideal place to unwind, just take it easy, or write that great novel. So come for the nature preserves, stay for the clam chowder!

For lodging, we rented a very nice condo right on the water with Seahorse Landing Condominiums. Location-wise, we couldn’t have been happier. We were walking distance to the little downtown, but in a quieter residential area. Although it was not exactly cheap, we did get a lot for our money. My only complaint being that the kitchen had a Kurig coffee maker but no Kurig coffee pods. As rustic and unpretentious as Cedar Key is, hotel rooms are a little pricey, depending on your budget. But our view was to die for! Our third floor view with a giant balcony made all the difference.

For more information about Cedar Key, Florida, including lodging, sightseeing, visit their website at cedarkey.org

© 2022 Rebecca Pavlik | TravlGusto

Florida Everglades Travel Tips

If you ever get the chance to drive through the Florida Everglades, don’t do what I did. It’s been a few years now, but looking back on my first big road trip to Key West and the Florida Everglades, I realize that I completely bungled the Everglades part of the trip. I expected to drive through the Everglades, along highway 41, and simply pull the car over and take amazing photos every time I saw a group of alligators, an egret or heron, or other striking scenery. Well, it was not to be. We were in a big hurry, and that’s simply no way to explore all the secret, and often hidden, beauty of the Florida Everglades.

There was no pulling off to the side of the road, and there were no ten-foot alligators just hanging out on the side of the road waiting to have their picture taken. Conquering the Everglades in the extreme heat of September proved to be much more challenging than I had anticipated. It took a second trip, a few years later, and staying several nights in Everglades City, to really explore the Everglades. For some important Florida Everglades travel tips, please keep reading.

Here’s what I Wish I had Known:

You might drive all the way across the Everglades on U.S. Highway 41 (the Tamiami Trail) and not see a single alligator. I didn’t realize this, but it all depends on the time of year and time of day, and how high the water is. On my first trip to the Everglades, we drove through along highway 41 the last week of September and after hurricane Hermine, the water was high. Well, we did see a few, but I can count them on one hand. A few of those we saw on our airboat tour and a few in the man-made drainage canals in Miami’s suburbs. You have to get off the main road to really see a lot of wildlife and alligators.

There’s no safe place to pull over on the side of highway 41 to take photos. Highway 41, The Tamiami Trail, is narrow and there is only one lane each way. You may also have someone right behind you hoping to pass you as soon as they can, which makes it hard to just pull over whenever you feel like it. The real problem though is that there is no safe place to stop on the side of the road. You will need to plan on stopping at the visitor’s centers, the airboat tour places, and the wooden boardwalk trail sites to safely get photos.

 

Florida Everglades - alligator show

Florida Everglades – A very informative alligator show was included with our airboat tour at Gator Park

 

You also won’t see the hidden beauty of the Cypress swamps from the main road while driving through. Granted, you do see the expanse of the Everglades, which is lovely and interesting, but the landscape doesn’t change much. It’s possible that you won’t see any alligators or other wildlife from the road other than a few birds. For this reason, I highly recommend taking an airboat tour, stopping at some of the park’s scenic boardwalk trails and visitor centers, and taking one of the scenic drives, such as Loop Road.

For wildlife viewing and great photos, take the Loop Road scenic route. Loop Drive is a 27 mile dirt road with incredible photo opportunities in the Big Cypress National Preserve. You really have to slow down and get off the main road (the 41) to photograph the Everglades and Big Cypress National Preserve. We took this scenic route the second time we visited the Everglades and it was well worth the time. Give yourself around three hours, give or take, to enjoy this incredible drive. You will probably be pulling your car over every mile or so to take photos. Everything here looks like a scene out of a National Geographic special. You’ll see a lot of alligators, herons, wood storks and other wildlife just posing in a beautiful swamp setting.

For a guided overview, I recommend the Shark Valley Tram Tour. This highly informative tram tour, narrated by an Everglades park ranger, is two hours long, and takes visitors on a unique tour of the Everglades, including a large lookout tower. There are also walking trails and bike trails at Shark Valley, so plan to spend at least 3 or 4 hours in this location. You’ll see a lot of alligators and other wildlife all along the trails and on the tram tour.

You may not see much, if any wildlife on your airboat tour.  It all depends on many factors — but airboats are very noisy and scare away most of the critters. Plus, it’s almost impossible to get great photos when going full speed in an airboat. We did see some baby alligators while we were going slow, so I guess they weren’t scared of the boat, and also one adult gator and an egret, but that’s it. Gliding through the sawgrass is thrilling though, and totally worth it to immerse yourself in this strange and beautiful landscape.

 

Florida Everglades airboat tour

Our Florida Everglades group airboat tour with Gator Park, located right on highway 41

 

Opt for the longer airboat tour or a private tour if you can afford it. Our group airboat tour at Gator Park cost about $25 per person (at the time) and only lasted a half hour, but included a live alligator show after the boat ride which was extremely educational. Next time I will try to find a longer tour or private tour. The private tours at Gator Park were $300 (at the time), which isn’t that expensive if you’re splitting the cost among four or five people, but we weren’t so we skipped it. Prices have gone up of course, so check their website ahead of time.

 

Florida Everglades, Gatorland ©Rebecca Pavlik

Gator Park, where we did our airboat tour and alligator show. They also have a cafe that serves alligator (it tastes like chicken).

 

For the best photos, try to do some sightseeing at sunrise or late afternoon to sunset. My airboat tour photos would have been so much more dramatic if the sun was setting. Call ahead and find out if you can take an airboat tour at sunrise or sunset. I know it’s hard to plan exactly where you’ll be at “magic hour” but if you’re a serious photographer it’s worth the effort. Photographing the Everglades is just as much about the sky and the light since it’s so flat (kind of like photographing a wheat field).

 

Florida Everglades airboat tour ©Rebecca Pavlik

Everglades – Photo taken on our airboat tour

 

There is no quick or fast way to really see the Everglades. It’s best to give yourself several days, if possible. The speed limit on Highway 41 is only 55 miles per hour tops, and in some places it drops down to 50 and even 45 mph, where there are Florida panther crossing signs. There is no zipping through the Everglades at 70 mph, unless you take the more northern route, which is an actual freeway/interstate. Even if you could, you wouldn’t see much. I liked going slow and taking in the scenery, it’s just that it took a lot longer than road trips I’ve taken out west. You’ll be going extremely slow if you take the Loop Road scenic drive, which I can’t recommend enough. You’ll probably be going around 20 miles an hour on that road, and it’s 27 miles long. The Shark Valley tram tour takes a long time as well. You’ll probably want to spend at least three hours there, including the tram tour and walking trails.

It was even hotter than I expected — and I live in Florida! We went in mid September and it was miserably hot. Just walking around to take a few photos was painful. I don’t recommend visiting in the summer — aside from the fact that we saw almost no alligators on our first trip, it was just too darn hot to really enjoy the outdoors. Also, don’t forget your bug spray! Unless you visit on a cold windy day, you will definitely need mosquito repellant in the Everglades.

 

Kirby Storter trail, along highway 41 in Big Cypress Nat. Preserve

Kirby Storter trail, along highway 41 in Big Cypress Nat. Preserve

 

You will drive right past the best sight-seeing and photo opportunities, if you don’t know about them ahead of time. The park’s signs are very small and don’t exactly advertise what you’ll see. Do your research ahead of time and pick three or four places you plan on stopping. Then keep an eye out for the signs — they’re small and easy to miss. You simply can’t tell from the road what’s going to be interesting. You really have to get off the road and take a hike, an airboat ride or tram tour to really get a feel for the Everglades. Again, I highly recommend stopping at Shark Valley visitors center and taking the tram tour.

Another “most see” stop for art lovers and photographers is Clyde Butcher’s Big Cypress Gallery, also on highway 41. Clyde Butcher is considered the Ansel Adams of Florida landscape photography. His gorgeous black and white fine art photographs capture the beauty of the Everglades and other Florida landscapes in a way that few can rival. Clyde Butcher is famous here in Florida and anyone stopping at his gallery will not be disappointed. The gallery also offers Swamp Walk Eco Tours and guided Photo Safaris.

My favorite walking trail was the Kirby Storter boardwalk in Big Cypress National Preserve. This short trail is easy to miss because the sign is so small and you can’t see the swamp from the road. It’s the one sight-seeing trail that should not be missed, especially if you don’t have time to take the Loop Road scenic drive. This walking trail has a raised wooden boardwalk that goes right through the middle of a gorgeous cypress swamp.

 

Florida Everglades, Kirby Storter trail

Kirby Storter trail in Big Cypress Nat. Preserve

 

The photo opportunities are endless here, although I didn’t see any alligators. You would not know from driving by just how different the landscape looks once you’re on the trail. Even the beginning of the trail is misleading. In fact, my mother and boyfriend, overwhelmed by the extreme heat and underwhelmed by the modest scenery at the start of the trail, turned around before they made it to the best part of the trail. The trail curves, suddenly you are surrounded by giant cypress trees, in a beautiful and magical swamp — I felt like I was in the middle of a National Geographic documentary. The Kirby Shorter trail is the one stop you should make (other than the Shark Valley Tram Tour and Visitor’s Center) on your drive through the Everglades on highway 41.

After my first, and rather impromptu, visit to the Everglades (we drove through on our way to Key West), I realized that an Everglades visit must really be planned or you will miss the best stuff. The best scenery doesn’t jump out at you like the Rocky Mountains or Monument Valley.

It wasn’t until I took another 3-day Everglades trip that I really got experience the Everglades and Big Cypress National Preserve. You have have to slow down and make more of an effort with the Everglades. Its quiet beauty, secret swamps, and elusive wildlife don’t necessarily reveal itself on the side of the road. You can easily drive straight through, get to the other side, and realize you missed it all.

 

 

 

For more information, sightseeing tours and things to do in the Everglades, click on the following links: www.stateparks.com/everglades and www.nps.gov/ever

For photos and more information about Big Cypress National Preserve, click here: www.nps.gov/bicy

For a list of Park Ranger led activities in Big Cypress (November through April) like canoe trips, swamp hikes, campfire talks, birding, astronomy programs, a triathlon and more, click here www.nps.gov/bicy/planyourvisit

© 2022 Rebecca Pavlik | TravlGusto

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Florida’s Pass-A-Grille Beach: Sugar White Sand & Cotton Candy Clouds

There is something special about Florida’s Pass-A-Grille beach. This little stretch of beach and its tiny one-block downtown, America’s shortest main street, feels like a scene from the 1950s. You’ll see children eating ice cream cones with their grandparents and average-looking people walking their dogs who say “hi” to you as they pass. You’ll spy young couples on their honeymoon and may stumble upon a wedding at the far end of the beach. Pass-A-Grille’s small motels and cafes look pretty much like they did 40 years ago and locals still fish off the small cement pier or on the small fishing pier on the Boca Ciega Bay side.

 

Pass-a-Grille Beach, Florida

Pass-a-Grille Beach, Florida — The fishing pier at sunset

 

Of course there are tourists, but Florida’s Pass-A-Grille beach isn’t as touristy as other Florida beaches I’ve been to. There seems to be just as many local residents hanging out, jogging, fishing, or just enjoying the scenery. Pass-A-Grille feels like a modest, friendly little beach town from a bygone era, when middle class people still lived at the beach and no one had to pay for parking. Well, except now you have to pay for parking, a more recent change.

 

Pass-a-Grille Beach – St. Petersburg, Florida

Wooden walkovers protect the fragile dunes

 

I Grew Up on this Beach

I always came to Pass-A-Grille beach as a child, having grown up in St. Petersburg, Florida. I liked this beach, of course, but as a kid, I’d never been anywhere else and had nothing to compare it to. I took it all for granted – the velvety sand, the warm water, the pelicans, egrets, herons, and the amazing sunsets. Returning many years later as an adult, it is both familiar and exotic. I lived for about 20 years in Los Angeles, where beaches are cold and windy even in the summer. I always froze to death in Malibu. As beautiful as it is, the Pacific ocean was always far too cold for my Florida blood.

 

 

Pass-a-Grille Beach – St. Petersburg,Florida

Storm clouds provide a dramatic sunset

 

Pass-a-Grille Beach – St. Petersburg, Florida

A typical Pass-A-Grille sunset over the Gulf of Mexico

 

 

Since moving back to Florida, I have come to truly appreciate its endless coastline, waterways and wetlands. There is something soothing about the Gulf of Mexico’s warm calm water, the muggy air and dramatic tropical skies. I love the giant cumulonimbus clouds that appear in the summer when storms roll in on a regular basis.

 

Wildlife

In addition to beautiful beaches, I constantly marvel at all of the wildlife here in Florida, especially along the coastline and at the water’s edge. At the sea wall, I can lean over, look into the water and see a variety of sea life just a few feet below the surface. I’ve seen stingrays, stone crabs, coral, sheepshead, snook, mullet, jack, and other large fish. At dusk it’s fairly common to spot dolphins popping up every minute, stingrays jumping out of the water, and even a pod of manatees, if you’re lucky.

 

 

Pass-a-Grille Beach, Florida – Shops

The tiny downtown is known as America’s shortest main street

 

History

In 1989, Florida’s Pass-A-Grille beach was declared a historic district. Some homes and buildings have been remodeled, but many have not. There are a three taller buildings, condos with beachfront views, that must have snuck in before it became a historic district, but that’s it. I love to walk up and down the tiny streets and admire all the tropical beach-themed bungalows with their charming gardens and patios. As more people discover Florida and Pass-A-Grille beach, some things are changing, like the addition of a few upscale restaurants. But overall, there is no glitz here, aside from the Don CeSar hotel, the beach’s famous pink palace at the north end. There are no big resorts, high-rises or expensive shops, just small charming beach bungalows, and a few small motels along the beach.

 

 

Pass-a-Grille Beach – St. Petersburg, Florida

One of the many beach bungalows that Pass-a-Grille is known for

 

Pass-a-Grille Beach, Florida – The Hurricane

The Hurricane is the largest restaurant and has a rooftop bar

 

Where to Eat

Here, dining is mostly casual and almost every eatery has a view of the water. There are about six seafood restaurants including, my personal favorite, the Paradise Grille. The Paradise Grille is an outdoor burger shack that sits right on the beach, serves alcohol, and makes great burgers to order. For the best sunset view, have a drink on the rooftop deck of The Hurricane, a low-key, super casual seafood restaurant right on the beach. The second-floor patio at The Brass Monkey is also a great place to have a casual dinner while watching the sun set. For breakfast, why not try the shrimp and grits at The Seahorse, a local favorite since 1938! The Seahorse is the oldest and longest running restaurant on Pass-A-Grille beach.

 

Pass-a-Grille Beach, Florida – Paradise Grille

The Paradise Grille is a great place to get a burger and enjoy the sunset

 

What to Do

Pass-a-Grille is small, but it does have a tiny history museum, shuffleboard courts, fishing, and kayak rentals. In addition, the Shell Key Shuttle offers several sunset cruises, Shell Key island tours, and private charters. You can catch the Shell Key Shuttle at the other end of 8th Avenue (the main street), at the Merry Pier. A few other companies also offer sunset cruises on sailboats and other small vessels, as well as dolphin cruises. 

 

Pass-a-Grille Beach, Florida – Dolphin Cruise

Sunset cruise on one of the small ferry boats

 

When to Go

Summers in Florida can be brutally hot. The best time of year to visit is in the Fall or Spring. Winters are also warm and mild here but the water is much colder and we do get cold snaps. Whenever you visit, I recommend arriving at the beach around 4:00 or 5:00 PM in order to avoid the midday crowds and heat. The late afternoon and early evening is perfect for a nice seafood dinner, a walk on the beach, and watching the sunset.

At sunset, everyone gathers with their cameras and smart phones trying to capture the artwork of Mother Nature. Many times I have thought that the sunset looks like an oil painting or a Hollywood backdrop for Pirates of the Caribbean. A small crowd usually gathers at sunset at the Paradise Grille. As tradition has it, when the sun finally sinks below the horizon, someone rings the bell, usually a small child who has waited in line for the honor.

 

For more information about Pass-a-Grille, visit their website: visitpassagrille.com

 

© 2022 Rebecca Pavlik | TravlGusto

Best Route 66 Towns for Neon & Nostalgia in the Old West

Historic Route 66 conjures up nostalgic images of a more innocent America from the forties and fifties, with old neon motel signs, vintage American autos, and iconic scenery of the American West. America’s most famous road was completed in 1926 and became the country’s main east/west route, running 2,488 miles from Chicago to Los Angeles. Known as “The Mother Road,” its history, car culture, and romantic lure has inspired songs, TV shows, movies, and books.

Route 66, The Wigwam Motel

Old cars are displayed at the Wigwam Motel in Holbrook

In 1985 when the last stretch of the new interstate was finished, Route 66 was officially decommissioned. Out West, it was replaced with Interstate 40, which bypasses many of the small towns that Route 66 used to go right through, rendering many of them obsolete, struggling to survive and keep from becoming actual ghost towns. These are the best Route 66 towns – the towns whose main claim to fame now is their Route 66 heritage. They are the old railway and truck-stop towns that time forgot. Arizona and New Mexico have more than their fair share of these little retro towns, and with the American Southwest as a backdrop, what could be better!

Route 66, Blue Swallow Motel in Tucumcari

Blue Swallow Motel sign in Tucumcari, New Mexico. This motel is still open for business.

To get a good feel of Route 66, I suggest driving the scenic and well-preserved stretch, from Arizona through New Mexico, and Texas, if time allows. If you haven’t made this drive before, don’t expect to drive the entire way along the old Route 66 and find a plethora of historic sights, or even a quaint Route 66 district in each town. In fact, preserved sections are few and far between. You won’t even be driving Route 66 most of the time. The original road is barely two lanes wide and not maintained on the long stretches between towns. It simply disappears in some places and is often not well marked or easy to find. Therefore, most of your drive will be on Interstate 40.

Below I’ve listed the most popular Route 66 towns (from West to East) and attractions on what is, in my opinion, the most preserved and scenic stretch of the old route.

ARIZONA – The longest undisturbed stretch of the original Route 66 is in Arizona. If you’re coming from the West, exit Interstate 40 between Needles and Kingman, and take State Road 95 to the original Route 66 heading towards Oatman. Oatman is an authentic Old West mining town with a current population of around 2000. It’s popular with tourists for its Old West history and Route 66 nostalgia. Oatman’s wild burrows wander the streets and there’s even a Wild West gunfight show. Another authentic old Route 66 town is Kingman, founded by the Santa Fe Railroad in 1882.

Route 66 – Kingman, Arizona

Our motel in Kingman, Arizona, with view of the town

With its stark desert scenery, old train depot, funky motels and cafes, Kingman feels more like a gritty truck stop town. In Kingman, check out the Historic Route 66 Association of Arizona, for history, information, memorabilia and a gift shop. From Kingman, drive east to Seligman, another interesting little town with some original structures and a Route 66 gift shop. From here, don’t take Interstate 40, instead continue along the longest remaining stretch of Route 66, which veers northwest and takes you through Peach Springs, the inspiration for the animated Pixar film Cars. With a population of just over 1000, its old buildings, hotels and gas stations remind visitors of another era.

One of the best Route 66 towns in Arizona is Williams, which many travelers miss by stopping in Flagstaff instead. Williams is a charming little Old West town with plenty of reasonably priced small motels, diners, and souvenir shops. One of Williams’ main attractions is The Grand Canyon Railway, which takes visitors from downtown Williams straight to the south rim of the Grand Canyon and back! Williams is tiny and quaint compared to Flagstaff, which is more of a college town. If time allows, I recommend driving north from Williams to see the Grand Canyon (if you don’t take the train), then driving along the south rim to Desert View and then to Cameron before heading south on the 89 back to Flagstaff. Flagstaff is the biggest town along Arizona’s stretch of Route 66, and caters as much to its Northern Arizona University students as it does tourists. The college scene keeps the small historic downtown district lively and filled with reasonably priced cafes and shops.   It’s more of a real town with a lot more going on, including numerous museums, the Lowell Observatory, the Riordan Mansion State Historic Park, and a ski area. Moving on, Interstate 40 takes you to the town of Winslow, home to the gorgeous La Posada Hotel & Gardens, an architectural gem built in 1929 by the Santa Fe Railway for the Fred Harvey Company. Designed by architect Mary Colter, it’s considered a Southwest masterpiece and “America’s last great railway hotel.” Winslow is an interesting Route 66 town, with an authentic feel and worth taking a look around. Heading east, your next stop is the tiny town of Holbrook, home of the famous Wigwam Village Motel. Built in 1950, with kitschy rooms in the shape of Native American teepees and a collection of vintage autos in the parking lot, the Wigwam is an iconic Route 66 landmark that is still in operation.

Route 66 – The Wigwam Motel, Holbrook, Arizona

Teepee rooms at the Wigwam Motel, Holbrook Arizona

 

NEW MEXICO – Gallup is another Route 66 town worth exploring. Known for striking desert scenery and its proximity to the Navajo Nation and the Zuni Pueblo, it’s the place to buy Native American pottery, artwork, rugs and jewelry. Gallup’s most famous landmark is the El Rancho Hotel. Built in 1936 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this rustic Old West hotel is where the biggest movie stars of the 30s, 40s and 50s stayed while filming Westerns nearby.  If you don’t stay the night, at least check out the hotel’s beautiful lobby (also used for filming) and have a drink at The 49er Lounge – the bar that Errol Flynn once rode his horse into!

Back on Interstate 40, for those interested in authentic Native American culture, I suggest taking a side trip to the Acoma Pueblo to the south, between Grants and Albuquerque. The Acoma Pueblo, or Sky City as it’s known, was established on top of a 367-foot mesa and is reputed to be the oldest continuously inhabited community in North America.

Albuquerque has a significant Route 66 section along what is now East Central Avenue and still plays up its Route 66 heritage! This stretch has a Route 66 diner and quite a few of the old Route 66 motels, with their cool retro neon signs. Some of the best old motels and neon signs are in a rundown part of town which is probably only good for taking photos, since most of these motels are no longer in use. Moving on, Santa Rosa is worth exploring, although it’s very small and doesn’t seem to give a hoot about Route 66 nostalgia. There are very few authentic old motels, retro neon signs, or other Route 66 references. Nonetheless, it’s an interesting old town that also has been left alone.

Route 66, Tucumcari, New Mexico

Palomino Motel in Tucumcari, New Mexico

 

Route 66 neon sign, Tucumcari, New Mexico

TeePee Curios Shop neon in Tucumcari, New Mexico

 

Route 66, Paradise Motel, Tucumcari, New Mexico

Old Paradise Motel sign in Tucumcari New Mexico

By far, the best town for funky old Route 66 motels, neon signs and nostalgia is Tucumcari. It’s quite small and as you can drive through the center of town, down Route 66, you’ll be surprised by the number of interesting old motels, shops, and cafes with incredible old neon signs! Several of these old hotels from Route 66’s heyday are still in operation, the most famous being the Blue Swallow Motel. From what I’ve observed, Tucumcari has more preserved old motels and shops, with their original neon signs, than any other town along this stretch – it seems truly untouched by time. It’s also a bit more gritty and authentic compared to Williams and Flagstaff. Some sections of town are a bit rundown and there’s not much to do there (no big attractions or museums), but that’s part of its charm – it hasn’t been ruined by progress. If you’re a photographer, Tucumcari should be at the top of your list.

TEXAS – This stretch of northern Texas is its shortest part, so for that reason alone, you could easily drive right through. However, if you’re coming from the west, you may just want to go as far as Amarillo, which is where you will find the strange roadside attraction known as Cadillac Ranch.

Cadillac Ranch | Photo by Tom Nora

Cadillac Ranch | Photo by Tom Nora

This art installation was the brainchild of rancher Stanley Marsh who collaborated with the Ant Farm, a San Francisco art collective, and consists of ten half-buried Cadillacs. It’s worth stopping and getting out of your car, as it’s much more impressive up close.  In downtown Amarillo, Route 66 is now 6th Avenue and lined with antique shops and a few cute cafes. It’s great if you love antiquing, and it’s a nice place to have lunch, but there’s not much in the way of original Route 66 signage or nostalgia. One building though, The Nat, has quite a history, having once been the biggest nightclub between Denver and Dallas. Built in 1922, The Amarillo Natatorium was originally a swimming pool, then a dance hall, then a performance venue. The huge old ballroom is now used as an antique mall during the day, and is cleared out for performances in the evening!

Route 66 continues on to Chicago, but I’ll leave that stretch of highway for another time. For most of us, Route 66 is just a great excuse to take a road trip out West and discover incredible desert scenery and interesting little towns we would otherwise have no reason to visit.

I suggest not getting too obsessed with Route 66 itself (unless you are a true history buff), mainly because there aren’t big chunks of it left – just little pieces here and there – and you may end up being disappointed by the lack of preservation. Besides, there is plenty to see and do along the way that has little to do with Route 66, like the Grand Canyon. Finally, keep an open mind – many of the towns that were bypassed when Interstate 40 was built suffered extreme economic downturns and may seem a little downtrodden and rough around the edges. However, time has a way of righting certain wrongs, and now those towns, the ones left alone with the least amount of progress, have become the most popular and authentic Route 66 travel destinations.

For a list of historic sites in each Route 66 city, I suggest visiting the National Parks’ website at http://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/route66/listofsites66.html They have a nice list of historic buildings and attractions in each town.

© 2022 Rebecca Pavlik, All Rights Reserved.