There is something special about Florida’s Pass-A-Grille beach. This little stretch of beach and its tiny one-block downtown, America’s shortest main street, feels like a scene from the 1950s. You’ll see children eating ice cream cones with their grandparents and average-looking people walking their dogs who say “hi” to you as they pass. You’ll spy young couples on their honeymoon and may stumble upon a wedding at the far end of the beach. Pass-A-Grille’s small motels and cafes look pretty much like they did 40 years ago and locals still fish off the small cement pier or on the small fishing pier on the Boca Ciega Bay side.
Pass-a-Grille Beach, Florida — The fishing pier at sunset
Of course there are tourists, but Florida’s Pass-A-Grille beach isn’t as touristy as other Florida beaches I’ve been to. There seems to be just as many local residents hanging out, jogging, fishing, or just enjoying the scenery. Pass-A-Grille feels like a modest, friendly little beach town from a bygone era, when middle class people still lived at the beach and no one had to pay for parking. Well, except now you have to pay for parking, a more recent change.
Wooden walkovers protect the fragile dunes
I Grew Up on this Beach
I always came to Pass-A-Grille beach as a child, having grown up in St. Petersburg, Florida. I liked this beach, of course, but as a kid, I’d never been anywhere else and had nothing to compare it to. I took it all for granted – the velvety sand, the warm water, the pelicans, egrets, herons, and the amazing sunsets. Returning many years later as an adult, it is both familiar and exotic. I lived for about 20 years in Los Angeles, where beaches are cold and windy even in the summer. I always froze to death in Malibu. As beautiful as it is, the Pacific ocean was always far too cold for my Florida blood.
Storm clouds provide a dramatic sunset
A typical Pass-A-Grille sunset over the Gulf of Mexico
Since moving back to Florida, I have come to truly appreciate its endless coastline, waterways and wetlands. There is something soothing about the Gulf of Mexico’s warm calm water, the muggy air and dramatic tropical skies. I love the giant cumulonimbus clouds that appear in the summer when storms roll in on a regular basis.
Wildlife
In addition to beautiful beaches, I constantly marvel at all of the wildlife here in Florida, especially along the coastline and at the water’s edge. At the sea wall, I can lean over, look into the water and see a variety of sea life just a few feet below the surface. I’ve seen stingrays, stone crabs, coral, sheepshead, snook, mullet, jack, and other large fish. At dusk it’s fairly common to spot dolphins popping up every minute, stingrays jumping out of the water, and even a pod of manatees, if you’re lucky.
The tiny downtown is known as America’s shortest main street
History
In 1989, Florida’s Pass-A-Grille beach was declared a historic district. Some homes and buildings have been remodeled, but many have not. There are a three taller buildings, condos with beachfront views, that must have snuck in before it became a historic district, but that’s it. I love to walk up and down the tiny streets and admire all the tropical beach-themed bungalows with their charming gardens and patios. As more people discover Florida and Pass-A-Grille beach, some things are changing, like the addition of a few upscale restaurants. But overall, there is no glitz here, aside from the Don CeSar hotel, the beach’s famous pink palace at the north end. There are no big resorts, high-rises or expensive shops, just small charming beach bungalows, and a few small motels along the beach.
One of the many beach bungalows that Pass-a-Grille is known for
The Hurricane is the largest restaurant and has a rooftop bar
Where to Eat
Here, dining is mostly casual and almost every eatery has a view of the water. There are about six seafood restaurants including, my personal favorite, the Paradise Grille. The Paradise Grille is an outdoor burger shack that sits right on the beach, serves alcohol, and makes great burgers to order. For the best sunset view, have a drink on the rooftop deck of The Hurricane, a low-key, super casual seafood restaurant right on the beach. The second-floor patio at The Brass Monkey is also a great place to have a casual dinner while watching the sun set. For breakfast, why not try the shrimp and grits at The Seahorse, a local favorite since 1938! The Seahorse is the oldest and longest running restaurant on Pass-A-Grille beach.
The Paradise Grille is a great place to get a burger and enjoy the sunset
What to Do
Pass-a-Grille is small, but it does have a tiny history museum, shuffleboard courts, fishing, and kayak rentals. In addition, the Shell Key Shuttle offers several sunset cruises, Shell Key island tours, and private charters. You can catch the Shell Key Shuttle at the other end of 8th Avenue (the main street), at the Merry Pier. A few other companies also offer sunset cruises on sailboats and other small vessels, as well as dolphin cruises.
Sunset cruise on one of the small ferry boats
When to Go
Summers in Florida can be brutally hot. The best time of year to visit is in the Fall or Spring. Winters are also warm and mild here but the water is much colder and we do get cold snaps. Whenever you visit, I recommend arriving at the beach around 4:00 or 5:00 PM in order to avoid the midday crowds and heat. The late afternoon and early evening is perfect for a nice seafood dinner, a walk on the beach, and watching the sunset.
At sunset, everyone gathers with their cameras and smart phones trying to capture the artwork of Mother Nature. Many times I have thought that the sunset looks like an oil painting or a Hollywood backdrop for Pirates of the Caribbean. A small crowd usually gathers at sunset at the Paradise Grille. As tradition has it, when the sun finally sinks below the horizon, someone rings the bell, usually a small child who has waited in line for the honor.
For more information about Pass-a-Grille, visit their website: visitpassagrille.com
© 2022 Rebecca Pavlik | TravlGusto